Hidden among a vast towering forest of
dipterocarpus trees is the ancient city of Angkor. After being abandoned for more than a 600 years the scattered ruins of this enormous site are busy once more, as throngs of tourists pour into Cambodia to marvel at the remnants of the great Khmer empire that thrived here from the 9th to the 15th century.
“Angkor is not orchestral; it is monumental. It is an epic poem which makes its effect, like the Odyssey and like Paradise Lost.”
- Arnold J Toynbee
Angkor (which means ‘city’ in Sanskrit), was built during an inspired 300-year period, starting with the vision of King Jayavarman II, and grew to become the most architecturally advanced and superior city of its time, eventually covering an area the size of present day Los Angeles. Most significant of this was the artistic detail which has survived almost a millennium, as seen in the multiple faces of the Bayon and delicately detailed bas-reliefs of temples such as Bantey Srey.
The Khmer empire
reached its zenith in the 12th century, when it controlled a large swathe of Southeast Asia and left similar architectural influence at the other great regional ruin of Ayutthaya in Thailand, as well as Khmer styled temples in the northeast of Thailand. Two centuries later Angkor fell to invading Thais, and was abandoned and reclaimed by tropical forest before being ‘rediscovered’ in the 1860s by Henri Mahout.
At the heart of the complex is Angkor Wat, a large symmetrical temple built relatively late in the empire’s era. Surrounded by half mile walls emblazoned with magnificent bas-reliefs, the temple was planned as a personal mausoleum for Suryavarnum II, and dedicated to Vishnu. It is rich in Hindu mythology, despite the Buddhist practices of its people, and the central sanctuary is placed on the largest of the structures in Angkor.
Angkor Wat is the name of the main temple in the vast temple complex of Angkor, which lies outside of Cambodia’s Siem Reap. Often compared to the Egyptian pyramids, this fantastic complex is one of Southeast Asia’s most visited sites and has grown massively in popularity in recent years. Angkor Wat is actually just one of the many impressive architectural monuments here, built between the 9th and 11th centuries.
Angkor Wat
The biggest and best preserved of the Angkor
monuments lies six kilometres outside of Siem Reap and is a magnificent example of ancient architecture. It features balanced proportions and intricate bas-reliefs and is one of the world’s most celebrated monuments. This funerary temple was allegedly built as a mini replica of the entire universe and the pillars, reliefs and carvings entice curious travellers from all over the world.
Heaven and Hell Relief
Stretching along Angkor Wat’s outer wall is a
carved depiction of the 32 hells and 37 heavens believed at the time of construction to have existed in the afterlife. Restored by the French in the 1930s, this is one of the highlights of a trip to Angkor.
Churning of the Ocean of Milk Relief
This is one of Angkor Wat’s most famed bas-
reliefs, and it depicts a group of gods and demons churning up the ocean in search of the elixir of life while a collection of angels dance in the background. It can be found at the southern part of Angkor Wat’s central temple complex.
Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom, meaning ‘great city’ in Khmer, was
the last capital of the Khmer empire and was once home to military, palace officials and priests. A number of temples exist inside the walls of the city including Bayon, Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King. Little remains of the buildings inside the enclosure but visitors cannot fail to be impressed by this vast compound.
Bayon
Situated at the centre of Angkor Thom, Bayon is
one of the most memorable sites of Angkor Wat. This Buddhist temple, built between the 12th and 13th centuries features over 200 smiling stone faces which look down upon visitors from every angle and the ruins have become cloaked in impenetrable jungle. The temple is best visited at sunrise, when the lighting is exquisite.
Khmer Circus Relief
Along the northern wall on Bayon’s first level is
a bas-relief depicting a Khmer circus. Tightrope walkers, dwarfs and an array of animals compete for space on this exquisite yet unfinished carving.
Terrace of the Elephants
Situated inside Angkor Thom, just a few ruins
remain of the Temple of the Elephants, including a long row of carved elephants along the eastern face of the temple. This terrace was used as a base for the king’s audience hall but the rest of the structure was originally made out of organic materials and no longer exists.
Terrace of the Leper King
Also located inside the walled city of Angkor
Thom, the Terrace of the Leper King is so called because of a 15th century statue of the Hindu god, Yama, which was covered in moss reminiscent of a leper. The terrace is thought to have been once used for royal cremations.
Chams Relief
Close to Bayon’s eastern gate is a three tiered
bas-relief depicting Khmer soldiers marching into battle and then numerous coffins being carried in the other direction. King Jayavarman VII is illustrated on horseback accompanied by his throng of concubines.
Baphuon
Built to be one of the most impressive temples of
the era, Baphuon marks the centre of the ancient city that stood before Angkor Thom’s construction. Having undergone much reconstruction in recent years, the temple is accessed by a raised sandstone walkway and is home to a vast reclining Buddha built in the 15th or 16th centuries.
Banteay Srei
Arguably one of the finest examples of Angkorian
art, Banteay Srei is a Hindu temple that was dedicated to Lord Shiva. Incredibly well-preserved carvings of elegant women wearing traditional skirts, scenes from the Ramayana and delicate flowers can be seen, all carved into pink stone. It lies around 30kms away from Siem Reap but is well worth a visit for its majestic carvings.
Bakong
Set within the Rolous Group of temples, Bakong
lies next to an active Buddhist monastery. Built as a dedication to Shiva, the temple is watched over by a collection of well-preserved elephant statues.
River of a Thousand Lingas
Surrounded by dense jungle to Angkor’s northeast,
these spectacular Linga carvings have been cut into the riverbed. Visitors need to walk uphill for two kilometres and can admire carvings of Hindu deities on the way up and down. Otherwise known as Kbal Spean, the riverbed can be easily accessed by taxi.
Lolei
Lolei’s four brick towers were built to replicate
the towers of Preah Ko. Sandstone carvings decorate the towers and a number of Sanskrit inscriptions can be seen on the doorposts.
Phnom Bok
Set away from the other sites, this tranquil site
sees far fewer visitors than Angkor’s other sites but is well worth a visit for its linga carvings and picturesque views. Visitors have to endure a 20-minute climb before reaching the top.
Hotels for Angkor Wat are all based in Siem Reap.